Aniline leather general
Aniline leathers are open-pored, very soft, smooth leathers without a pigment layer, which is why they are sometimes called "natural leathers." Because this layer is missing, they feel warm and waxy. Another characteristic of the lack of pigment layer is the clearly visible, natural pore pattern. This naturalness makes the leather very expensive, as only a few hides are suitable for this purpose. The leather must be free of defects, such as tick bites or horn bumps, as the entire surface structure is visible. Aniline leathers are used for making bags, furniture, shoes, and clothing.
Pigmentation and dyeing of aniline leather
Aniline leather is either undyed or further processed in a bath containing aniline dyes. If the leather is then treated with a light layer of pigment, it is called semi-aniline leather. This type of leather is between "natural leather" and "pigmented leather." Some aniline leathers are given a thin protective layer through impregnation or a finish. This layer must not be thicker than 0.01 mm, as otherwise the grain pattern will no longer be fully visible. If such a protective layer is not present, it is also referred to as pure aniline leather.
Since the leather has no pigment layer or, if it does, only a light protective layer, it is extremely susceptible to fading from sunlight, as well as water and grease stains.
You can get more information about the different types of leather in this video:
Additional sources (accessed 10.01.2019):
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lederzentrum(dot)de/wiki/index.php/Anilinlder
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leder-info(punkt)de/index.php/Anilinleder
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collonil(dot)com/blog/leather-material/what-you-should-know-about-nappa-leather-and-aniline-leather
